Buying Your First Motorcycle

By Javier Marín, Editor·Last reviewed September 2026·How we check this

A motorcycle is the most fun-per-dollar transportation you can legally own — and the most dangerous if you buy the wrong bike or skimp on gear. This guide is for riders shopping their first one or two bikes, with the practical advice we wish someone had handed us at the dealership.

Take the safety class first

Don't buy a motorcycle until you've completed the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) Basic Rider Course. The course costs $150-$350 in most states, runs over a weekend, includes the use of a small training motorcycle (so you don't have to own one yet), and counts as your motorcycle license skills test in nearly every state. More importantly, it'll tell you whether you actually like riding before you spend $5,000 to find out.

Pick the right beginner bike

The ideal first bike is small, low, light, and gently powered. Specifically:

Engine size: 250cc to 650cc for sport bikes, 500cc to 800cc for cruisers. Anything bigger is harder than it needs to be in a parking lot.
Seat height: Both feet flat on the ground at a stop. If you can only get your toes down, the bike will tip when you stop on uneven ground.
Weight: Under 450 pounds for sport bikes, under 600 for cruisers. You'll drop a first bike at low speed at least once. Heavier bikes are harder to pick back up.
Power delivery: Smooth and predictable. A modern 600cc supersport produces more horsepower than is useful for any new rider.

Common starter recommendations: Honda CB300R/500F, Yamaha MT-03, Kawasaki Z400 / Ninja 400, Honda Rebel 500, Kawasaki Vulcan S, Royal Enfield Meteor 350 / Classic 350.

Used almost always beats new

A two-to-three-year-old motorcycle has lost the steepest part of its depreciation curve — typically 25-35%. Combined with the mathematical certainty that you'll drop a first bike, the cheaper used bike is the more practical purchase. Look for unmodified examples with clean title, full service history, low-to-moderate mileage (under 20,000 miles for sport bikes; under 30,000 for cruisers and standards), and no obvious crash damage.

The mechanical inspection

Beyond the same checks you'd do on a used car (see used car buying guide), focus on:

Chain and sprockets. Sharkfin teeth on the rear sprocket means imminent replacement ($150-$300).
Frame and fairing. Look for spider-web cracks in painted plastic — almost always means the bike has been on the ground.
Bar ends and engine cases. Scratches on either side of the bike confirm a low-side crash.
Fork seals. Oil residue on the fork tubes means leaking seals ($150-$400 to replace).
Tires. Date code on the sidewall tells you the year of manufacture. Tires older than five years are unsafe regardless of tread depth.

Gear: budget for it now

The single most important purchase isn't the motorcycle — it's the gear. Plan to spend $700-$1,500 before you ride for the first time:

Helmet: Full-face, DOT and ECE 22.06 certified. $150-$500. Buy new and try it on; helmet fit is personal.
Jacket: Abrasion-resistant textile or leather with CE-rated armor at shoulders, elbows, and back. $200-$500.
Gloves: Full-finger with palm slider and knuckle armor. $50-$150.
Pants: Riding-specific pants or armored riding jeans. Not regular denim. $100-$300.
Boots: Over-the-ankle with a stiff sole. $100-$300.

Insure properly

Motorcycle insurance is dramatically cheaper than auto insurance for liability-only coverage but can swing wildly for comprehensive and collision based on bike type, age, and rider history. Sport bikes are categorized as high-risk and command higher premiums than equivalent-priced cruisers. New riders with no prior motorcycle history pay a "new rider surcharge" for the first 12-24 months of coverage.